Interestingly enough they did not mention the possible cloning effort the French are seeking out to save their antique industry. But they did have some info on how the black market may swindle unbeknowest chefs and the public.
The Chinese black truffle - striking resemblance to the French or Italian fungi- grows at much higher quantities, but no where near as pungent and flavorful. By throwing in a few small French black truffles in a large bag with the majority of Chinese truffles, they become aromatic and can fake out untrained consumers. Another way is by spraying the "impostor" with a truffle eau-du-toilette.
I'm very intrigued by this situation for multiple reasons. One of my many questions: why can't the Chinese just market their truffles as Chinese Black Truffles? I feel the market is large enough and people would try a "lesser quality" because of taste, budget, or pure curiosity. It is completely unethical, in my mind, to sell "fake" products to unknowing customers - it is the responsibility of the vendor to believe in their goods and educate the visitor.
I am not naive and believe this is the first time it has happened. However, if what is being reported is true and the Chinese are threatening the tradition of a culinary delicacy then someone needs to put a stop to this now.
As for the French trying to save their truffle - is cloning really the answer? There is no proof that the truffles would taste and smell the same. Besides, that would be putting one of their own at risk: truffle-sniffing dogs and pigs. The dogs and pigs are an integral part of the hunt and would most likely be out of business.
More to come.
Pace!
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